12V & 24V fridges for campervans, caravans, motorhomes and boats
Operates on:
12V DC: the main and most common power source for compressor fridges, powering both the display and the compressor itself.
240V AC: most models don't run directly from 240V. Instead, they can use an external power adapter, or more commonly, the hook-up charges the leisure battery so the fridge carries on running on 12V.
This means a compressor fridge works just as comfortably on a campsite as it does off-grid. The difference is how the leisure battery is being replenished.
Key benefits
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Highly efficient on 12V
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Fast cooling and good temperature recovery
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Wide range of sizes for small, medium and large campers
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Suitable for a few days away or extended touring
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Generally performs better in hot weather than an absorption fridge
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Far less affected by uneven ground, great for off-grid use
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No external fridge vents required
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No LPG required
Things to be aware of
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Makes some noise
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Only power source is electricity
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Does not run directly from 240V
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Excessive voltage drop can cause cut-outs
Compressor Fridges Installation
Installation setup and required ventilation
Ventilation examples
Internal airflow around the compressor and condenser
Ventilation layout A
Ventilation layout B
Cool air enters low down. Warm air must be able to escape high up.
Wiring options
Typical ways a compressor fridge may be powered
Battery-power setup A
Battery-power setup B
Always follow the fridge manufacturer's wiring and ventilation guidance.
Key points
Compressor fridges do not normally require external wall vents.
They still need good airflow around the compressor and condenser.
A stable 12V supply, correct cable size and suitable fuse are essential.
Some setups may use a dedicated AC/DC power adapter.
The customer has invested in an off-grid power system
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The fridge needs to suit short weekend trips as well as longer touring
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A specific size is needed: they come in a wide variety of sizes for small, medium and large vehicles
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They plan to use it in hotter climates
Check before buying:
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Check leisure battery capacity and charging sources
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Confirm cable run, cable size and fuse rating
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If 240V operation is needed, check which options are available for that model
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Make sure there is space for internal airflow around the compressor and condenser
Consider an absorption fridge if:
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A wheel arch model is needed
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Replacing an existing 3-way fridge
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LPG is preferred
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Completely silent operation is a priority
Quick troubleshooting
Start here:
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Is it cooling?
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Does it stay cool?
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Is the compressor running?
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Is the fan running?
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Are there any lights on?
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When did the issue occur?
Check power & surroundings:
DC leisure battery
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Is the battery charged?
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Voltage at the battery?
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Voltage at the fridge?
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Terminals and fuse intact?
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Correct cable gauge for the run?
Surroundings
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Is there enough ventilation?
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Is the condenser area clean and clear?
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What is the ambient temperature?
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Is the fridge on the right setting?
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Is the door seal closing properly?
Mains supply / transformer
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How does the 240V reach the fridge?
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Does it run through a power adapter?
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Check the input and output voltage on the adapter
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Check the fuse, breaker or RCD
Important voltage note:
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Poor cabling or connections can cause low voltage at the fridge, even when the battery voltage is good.
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Low voltage can stop the fridge cooling, reduce its performance or cause repeated cut-outs.
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The display can still light up even when the voltage is too low for the compressor.
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Most compressor fridges don't run directly from 240V and need an external or built-in power adapter. If the fridge won't switch power sources, check the voltage going into and coming out of the adapter.
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